September 26, 2019
Using regional traditional techniques of Ikat
Inspired by the Chausat Yogini Temple, the 64 tantric female deities of Odisha,
designer Gunjun Jain’s Yogini collection celebrates womanhood representing
varied expressions of modern-day Yoginis through handwoven sarees styled in
experimental drapes teamed with workwear blouses.From rural West Bengal, Eka by
Rina Singh is presenting hand spun and woven textile using the technique of
‘Kata Makur Kaj’, as called in rural Bengal or ‘Cut Shuttle’ in layman language.
We have done a cut shuttle technique which was earlier used in saree borders
but not anymore as it is time-consuming and is expensive.Her designs will have a
special focus on Odisha and will introduce hand woven khadi textures and
fabrics. From deep indigo blue to pastel mint green, Karishma has used a colour
palate of eight to nine colours along with a lot of white and silver zari. "We
don’t use the material or the fabric as it is as our aim is to have customers
buy and wear it. The clothes have to be contextual to our functional lives and I
have tried to give it more shape, forms, and technique that you wouldn’t see in
this textile, inherently.A weaver engaged in the work of weaving. For instance,
gold plays an important role in the saree down south and is usually seen on the
borders. It is but obvious for the fabric to be expensive. While brands such as
Indigene and THREE have collaborated with weavers from in Odisha and Bihar,
designers such as Naushad Ali will present a collection of handloom trench
coats, trousers, dresses and jumpsuits made by the Musiri weavers in
Tiruchirappalli. "For instance, a stitch saree dress can be worn during the day
or at an event. The best thing about the fabric is, you can wear it in any
season," she smiles. Karishma seconds his opinion and adds that one needs to
understand where the product is coming from. Naushad further explains that with
sustainable fabric, a weaver can only make 1.
Using regional traditional
techniques of Ikat and Jala, the couturier has given a contemporary language to
the classic temple border of ‘kumbha’ by reinterpreting it in different
ways.Since 2012, there have been constant efforts in bringing to fore craftsmen
and their Wholesale
48 Cavity-Preform Mould work and the upcoming edition of the fashion week
will see handwoven fabrics from Rajasthan and Odisha, intricate khadi weaves,
Kanjivaram and ecological fibres.Designer Karishma Shahani Khan who will be
presenting the work of Kota Women Weavers Organisation from Rajasthan has picked
Kota Doria - a fine fabric made of a blend of silk and cotton, to showcase her
designs. "We tried to re-capture the curvilinear ikats and have worked on a
range of Ikat textiles known for their intricate and fine lines, almost like
thin pencil drawings," says Gunjan adding that her designs also narrates the
story of a 500-year-old textile tree between Odisha and South East Asia. The
designer describes Kota Doria as a fabric with a very translucent qualy yet not
fragile. It moves through multiple hands and not a machine," she stresses.From
Rajasthan’s Kota Doira to Odisha’s tussar silk sarees, the stage will also be
celebrating women spinners and weavers. It is handmade and the amount of human
hours it takes is precious. "Predominantly made by women, the fabric is sheer
and light in nature despite using a lot of zari work. The idea behind the
sustainable movement is to make the fashion industry more socially responsible
by helping the artisans and weavers who work on traditional themes. "Musiri is
well known for good quality cotton, predominantly used for saree," says Naushad
who explains how he epicycles the traditional materials. But now, designers and
entrepreneurs are looking to showcase fabrics and weaves that are an intrinsic
part of India’s heritage, thereby encouraging sustainability.
But it is so
interesting that I have increased the weight of the fabric in khadi, done a cut
shuttle where I have done a colour contrast.This year will also see digitally
driven designer-artisan collaboration with three clusters and designers. In its
seventh year, the upcoming edition of Lakme Fashion Week will celebrate such
indigenous crafts and artisans through a series of curated shows that seeks
collaboration between skilled artisans and innovative designers from around the
country. But over a period of time, it has lost its place in textile list," says
Karishma whose label Ka-Sha along with Craftmark has given a modern twist to
this traditional piece of fabric thats mainly used for saree or dress.5meters a
day. "The process is much slower, time-consuming and we work for four months on
creating the fabric.Over the last few decades, Indian fashion designers have
made their mark in the global market with their sartorial designs. Keeping the
same quality as the base fabric, we have removed the borders and put gold
throughout the fabric in simple checks," explains Naushad who has also done a
lot of layering, trench coats, and bold jackets.
It is not expensive because of
its sustainability, but because of the process that is involved," he says.But,
how viable is our sustainable fashion market? Experts believe that fashion is no
longer just about trends and innovative designs, it is also a means to encourage
dialogue on sustainable choices.We have worked with the traditional motif but
with a slightly modern twist, like polka dots but with zari and their
traditional white colours," explains Karishma. "It’s a simple fabric but with an
interesting grid pattern—that’s its trademark. We have also used woodblock in
chintz print on the fabric," says Rina whose collection also features Sojani
embroidery from Kashmir on woolen dresses, khadi, and linen. "A lot of effort
goes into making a fabric giving an end product so pure that it cant be
replicated by a machine
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