December 17, 2019

They are good for publicity and create a buzz

And the best part? Our very own Indian designers are playing the biggest role.Sanchita AjjampurIt’s not just their international counterparts that Indian designers are hopping on board with anymore.What tomorrow looks likeFor Indian designers, fashion collaborations are just the beginning.All in the bizThe economics behind these associations is nothing short of golden. 


Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s antique sequins on Christian Louboutin’s red lacquer-soled Victorian heels; or bling on the minimalist Stan Smith — two different worlds, one wild imagination. It highlights their own design philosophy, they say.

Namrata Joshipura (right) with Stan Smith and Ranveer SinghFor most designers, collaborations aren’t just a shot at fame. Developing, in his words, ‘superbly mad and sexy’ designs for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Caroline Herrara and Nicole Miller only takes the icing.Designer Runa Ray with the cast of Quantico in New YorkIt’s a win-win. Her models have sported sneakers on the ramp and as a runner, she often slips into a pair herself. Suhani, who has earlier worked with the 120-year-old crystal house, believes that when an international brand comes forward for an association, they have a lot of confidence in the designer’s ability.

Designers Rahul Mishra and Aneeth Arora followed suit with their own variations — while Arora worked with Afghan refugees to hand crochet flowers, Rahul decided to draw from both impressionist Henri Rousseau and traditional Indian kaarigars to hand-embroider rainforests with multi-layered stories of nature and art — something the West hasn’t thought of on tennis shoes yet. It opens up a new think tank, helps get out of the comfort zone and in an enriching way, tests your own abilities," says Hyderabad-based designer Suhani Pittie, who was commissioned by a wildly popular Austrian jewellery house to create exclusive designs for them.

So, why collaborate?Cross-border associations puts Indian designers, their work and their home country on the global map, while also helping them offer a western sensibility to the Indian palette, and introducing ours to the West. "You might spend a few years with each other and then probably move on, but then, it could turn into a marriage if both grow independently while still complimenting each other," she says, collaborating with Los Angeles-based rock bands like The Destroyers to create funky jackets for them.

They are good for publicity and create a buzz.Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s antique sequins and Parsi gara work found their way to Christian Louboutin’s red lacquer soled Victorian heelsDid you know Vienna-raised and now Bengaluru-based fashion designer Sanchita Ajjampur has worked with several top designers including Lacroix, Gaultier, Moschino and Armani?Designer Suneet Varma has found phenomenal success with international design houses — he’s the only Indian designer to collaborate with Judith Leiber to roll out a line of minaudieres that are now retailed (and coveted) across the world. Abraham and Thakore with their craft-inspired collection for West Elm, loungewear and home accessories for London’s Harrods is one such example. In short, it gets people talking. While the gold lines highlight linearity, the crusted crest and wings provide a twist with a touch of bling," she tells us.

Anything is possibleA few weeks ago, the fashion world’s wickedest dream came true — bridal godsend Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s antique sequins and undisputed Parsi gara work had found their way to every girl’s fancy — Christian Louboutin’s shiny, red lacquer soled Victorian heels. And now, the winds have shifted. So, when the once World No. In designing my version of this classic, I incorporated my signature approach — complex embroideries and colour."These collaborations are thought-provoking. High-end couturier JJ Valaya, Rohit Bal and Manish Arora are working with Swarovski to roll out baubles for under Rs 11,000. And embracing this globalisation evokes a sense of freedom, while finding balance and diversity and allowing us to stay competitive in a world of disruption," says designer Sanchita Ajjampur, who also consults for Parisian fashion houses such as Lanvin, Yves Saint Laurent and Chloe developing patterns, fabric and embroidery from scratch. "A good collaboration can elevate a brand in another geography or with another audience. It’s a story of going out there and being as wild as the imagination allows. "Collaborations allow a designer to think on a brand new tangent with another’s perspective in tow.Imagine. 

But some heavyweight Indian designers with luxe-loving clients are now associating with international design houses to spring on affordable ranges. It’s a good mix-and-match and can be beneficial, so long as the bottling machine Manufacturers project serves the needs of both companies and comes across as a natural combination," pitches in the Bengaluru-based designer, who believes that her gates to collaborate have opened up thanks to her stint at the New York Fashion Week — not once, but for two seasons in a row. The newest buzzword is masstige, where designers associate their prestigious names with fast fashion chains to roll out a limited-edition line to reach more people. Just like this crowning alliance, Indian designers plunging into the international collaboration pool has today become a regular affair. 

And these are just a few of the many. Kolkata’s Abhishek Dutta, who has an ongoing collaboration with Portico-New York, brings out everything from sheets and cushions to duvet covers. Delhi-based fashion designer Namrata Joshipura has infused ath-leisure elements into her collections for years. Fashion designer Runa Ray believes collaborations are like good friendships. 1 tennis champ Stan Smith dropped by Mumbai, she had to pay tribute to the athlete and his eponymous shoes by associating with Adidas, headquartered in Germany. "I’d say, why not? If we can marry luxury with affordability then why not allow a larger audience to enjoy one’s beautiful work? Once you have built a trusted brand name, the larger audience too will have faith in your products," adds the celebrity favourite, who is soon launching her own luxury-meets-affordability range.

Suhani PittieA brand new story is being written in the global fashion world — a story that is challenging the way we look at ourselves, the clothes we wear, the accessories we sport and the combinations we thought worked. High-flying brands that some can only dream of are collaborating with Indian designers. According to Namrata, they can either highlight design similarities between brands, or make for interesting juxtapositions, like her own.Aneeth Arora worked with Afghan refugees to hand crochet flowers on tennis shoesSomething for everyoneOwning an Indian designer label comes at just as steep a cost as say, what a Parisian couture house has to offer. Innovating is what keeps fashion and designers relevant. 

The ‘Stan Smith’ is an epitome of minimalism and linearity. Brand building is a slow and deliberate process — it highlights your strength and relevance globally," says Namrata, who now retails her own line across Paris, Dubai, Japan and Los Angeles. With colour, culture and mysticism — India has often commanded the attention of international haute couture houses and designers. Haven’t heard of it? Talk to those who waited to grab Indian designers Gauri and Nainika’s creations from Koovs headquartered in UK, but couldn’t because it was sold out in a matter of hours. Design maverick Rohit Bal’s marketing strategy of collaborations has taken his creative partnerships from Luxembourg international cosmetic giants to even Japanese automobiles and Pennsylvania cigarette lighter manufacturers

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